Tobacco

I have two controls for the speeds, one in one side, which one is for decrease and which one is for increase??, I dont nothings about bike, I'm trying to start in this sport.

While I agree with the last answer, is this a joke? You bought a $2,000 bicycle and you don't know how to shift the gears? Did you buy it at a bike shop? If you did, what shop did you buy this bike from? I'll make sure to put them on my "Never Going to Visit" list. The shop should've helped you with that. If you bought private party, you should've mentioned it to the seller. For all of this, you could've been out riding and enjoying yourself instead of sitting here waiting for one of us to give you the answer- if this is real.

2008-08-13 16:06:26 by Henry P

Dave shows off the all new 2011 F Series road bike from Felt.

i'm looking at an 2008 FELT FW40 and it seems very nice. i sat on it and it felt good. im just wondering why they would use a 3-pc crankset and tiagra parts with sora parts?

it is made cheaply? will this bike last me?

Felt has made very nice bikes for years now. All bikes have a 3 piece crank. The mixing of parts is common in all manufacturers as they try to get bikes into certain price points.

If you can save a little bit and wait a little longer I would wait and step up to the next level bike. Typically the only reason a person would buy sora parts on the bike is because they want the price point and aren't sure if they are going to enjoy riding. If you know you like riding and want something that will last (components wise, the frame will be fine) step up to the next model and get FW35, the full 105 grouppo is going to be a world of difference in shift quality and will wear better than the tiagra or sora components.

Talk to the shop your looking at the FW40 at and see if they have a year old FW35. If so you can normally get a slight deal on last years model.

2008-04-14 02:44:46 by MKB

Im trying to get myself a good road bike to get fit and have my heart on the Felt Z70, however its a bit expensive and id like to know if anyone knows where i can get it cheap.
Cheapest I've found it is £750

A pretty good deal, if you think about it.

The MSRP (direct from Felt, no middleman) is around 658 GBP.

Check what they're offering as compnents against the Felt website found at the appended link. The link is direct to the Z70 ... alternatively, simply go to

www.feltracing.com

and browse the website to get what you need.

2007-07-19 14:17:20 by Matthew W

I am a regular mountain biker, but like to road-ride, too. However, my full-suspension is way too much drama for the pavement and even my hardtail is too heavy for efficient road travel. I want something lighter and better suited. The problem is, I am not super fond of the "feel" of road bikes. I saw that Trek (my fave) had "fitness" bikes and "urban" bikes and I am wondering if anyone can tell me what are the advantages/disadvantages to choosing a fitness or urban bike over a road bike?

THANKS! :)
Just to add, a fitness bike is not a stationary bike. It is an actual style of bicycle like urban, road, mountain, triathalon, etc. I was just hoping that someone had some info on what might be better suited for me. Thanks to anyone who can help!

Okay, here goes, a Road bike is a race inspired design. It has you in an "attack" position the whole time regardless of how you place your hands on the bars. The frames are MUCH lighter than MTBs and the tires are much thinner as well (obvious). What is NOT completely obvious is the change in the riding position. The seatpost is higher and the stems/hb is positioned so that you are more erect but arched forward as well.

The hybrids, aka fitness bikes/urban bikes are basically a mixture of MTB and road bikes. They are using the geometry of MTB but the concepts/ideals of a road bike. The wheels on a hybrid are 700 cc which is similar to a road bike but the tire size is actually a little bit wider and thicker. (instead of 18-25, it is 32-38). The riding position is similar to that of a MTB with a little more relaxed feeling and not an attack position. The components actually go both ways. Some models have MTB components while some have Road bike components. That depends, however, on how high of a model you get. Some, also have carbon fiber distributed throughout the frame/fork while others are fully rigid. Sometimes you'll find a suspension seatpost but on "fitness" bikes it is usually a rigid fork. Weight wise, the hybrids range from 20-25lbs but are actually surprisingly fast. Trek, Giant, Specialized, Cannondale and a couple others all offer hybrids now.
Pros: hybrids are cheaper and have the same basic concept of getting from point A to point B quickly but comfortably but still a nice ride to work out with. The geometry is very similar to a MTB. Faster than MTB. Not much maintenance required if you take care of it.

Cons: Not as light as a road bike. Components can be cheapy if not purchasing a good model. Can be as expensive as road bikes if purchasing a good model.

I have both MTB's and Road bikes and I love both. I just love to ride regardless of what bike it is. However, there is a HUGE difference between the two. If you just want to get from point A to point B, I say get a hybrid. If you want a cardio work out and get HUGE legs, get a road bike. It took me a while to break down and buy a road bike. I owned only MTBs for years but decided to finally give it a shot after starting to work at a bike shop. I like both but nothing beats MTBs. Go to a dealer and try them both out, hybrids and road bikes. Ride it for a while and see if you can see yourself getting comfortable on a road bike. If not, your choice is pretty much made up. If so... well.... questions... questions... questions... and price... price...price. Good luck mate.

2007-08-06 10:38:14 by Aaminah

http://www.spaso.com/felt2005/f80_geo.html
http://www.spaso.com/felt2005/f80.shtml

The specs say 700c x 22. I haven't been able to locate that particular size tire on any retail website. I have seen 700 x 22c/23. Most tires I see are700c 23mm. I assume I need a clincher tire.

What I'm trying to say is I'm completely ignorant about bike tires and I'd be much obliged if someone could identify what tire specs I should be looking for.

You can actually run any tire from a 700X20 to a 700X25 on those rims. 700x20 is actually very narrow and is mainly designed for racing while the 700x25 is more of a tourer. The best size for your bike is actually a 700x23. I run those on my Felts. What is really more important is buying tires with a good wear life. Personally I like using either the Continental 4000s or the Vredestein Fortezza SEs. The Contis are a little steep in price, but you can pick up a pair of Vredesteins for nearly half the price of the Continentals. The Vreds are a heavier tire but I swear by them in overall value. Just rotate your tires every 500 miles and you should get a long life out of them. I rotated every 250 miles and was able to get close 7,000 miles out of a set of Fortezza SEs. Othrer Fortezzas are just as good from what I've been told.

2008-07-10 13:49:53 by Aaron A

I enjoy doing sprint triathlons, but only do two a year. I like to Mountain Bike more than I cycle. Instead of buying a road bike, can you give me some tips (hopefully cheap tips) on how to convert my biek for the road. I just put road tires on my bike and feel a huge difference.

Is there a better option than Aero bars?

MTBs and tri- bikes aren't so different. Both are designed to race very similar distances. Road bikes are completley different animals - you're not wanting to convert to a road bike - thats a pointless exercise.

You don't need 27c wheels to be competitive in a triathlon - and you can certainly complete a short course event easily on converted MTB. Many of the top Japanese guys actually race on little frames with 26 inch wheels and totally kick butt.

I wouldn't even bother swapping your bars out - if you want to optimize your riding position try working with what you've got on the MTB - inverting you stem will often give you a zero rise which will lower and spread you center of gravity - in effect reducing the pitch of the front diamonds angles.

You don't need aero bars to adopt a aerodynamic riding position ! Just drop your forearms onto the top of your bars or place your thumbs over the top of your bars and clasp the stem with both palms and tuck your elbows in.( I've hit over 70 kph on sealed downhills on MTBs doing this). You don't really have to put a lot of effort into controlling the bike in a triathlon - it's pretty much point and shoot.

To convert to a rig that will really rock you will need a set of rigid forks, a new back wheel, chain, and a couple of biggish chain rings.

If you are a taller person you could try some longer cranks - jump up to175's.

All these changes will totally depend on the size of your frame, the dish of your new rear wheel , your chain line and your bottom bracket dynamics - but if you can get these things dialed all at once by a good mechanic - there's no need to splash the cash for a tri-bike just to hit up one or two events a year.

Don't be put off by people telling you your MTB is too heavy. It won't be. Now that you can draft in triathlons - who cares about weight?

2007-08-30 09:17:22 by Handsome 3K